Mar Mikhael's Transformed Secteur Totally Outdoes Itself
I was a little puzzled when one of the partners and founders
behind Secteur 75 told me that the pub was due for a major facelift. One of Mar
Mikhael’s trailblazing pubs with deliciously addictive cocktails and first-rate food, Secteur 75 had quirky décor animating each
room in its house-like layout—even the restroom was a mandatory visit for its
interesting basin and contraptions.
Secteur 75 shut down during the stretch of the second half
of 2014 and re-launched a week before Christmas, nixing the digits from its
name to don it a statelier aura. The good news is that that stateliness is
more than fully realized between its renovated walls.
The gastropub—and trust me, Secteur figures in that rare
breed of refined food meets pub—has a canopied entrance that evokes New York’s
Park Avenue. Push open the door, ascend the crimson carpeted steps and alight
to a landing that leads you to a shimmering bar. Your jaw will drop once you
behold the ceiling-high shelves neatly housing the hundreds of bottles of
spirits, and how about those eclectic lamps suspended from above and lighting
up the gold and brass space?
Honestly, it looks like a scene out of a movie. If
I had to describe the bar in one word, it’d be “polished.”
The break-out rooms each have a theme of their own and lend
a bit of intimacy to those wishing to nibble and chat. We sat in the candle
chamber: picture an amorphous-shaped oak-wood table with a centerpiece of dark
purple candles ablaze over a mound of wax. The table is surrounded by a dozen
plush high chairs. There are two cocktail tables in the corner of the room
ideal for couples or small groups. On the wall is a painting of a porcelain urn
with an LED-lit maid dynamically dusting it from lip to base. It is uncanny and
avant garde.
I could literally speak volumes about the architecture of
Secteur, but the gourmand in me is dying to express her perspective on the more
edible features of the venue. The fare was concocted by acclaimed British Chef
Ed Dutton of London’s Pieds Nus, and his elite touch is unmistakable.
On the menu:
The Mushroom & Truffle Croquette (30,000 LL) blends
mushroom tempura, sweet garlic purée, and real truffle shavings on five
dainty globes. Ethereal.
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| Mushroom & Truffle Croquette |
The Shrimp Popcorn (27,000 LL) is a welcome spin on the
tired calamari fritters appetizer we see everywhere in Beirut. Jalapeno and
carrot shavings serve as garnish, and wasabi mayo cools your palate.
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| Popcorn Shrimp |
Had I known that this was Veal Eel Tartar (32,000 LL) before
sinking my teeth into it, I may have cowered out of consuming the seas’
ugliest creature. I’m glad no one clued me in, because this entrée was one of
my favorites. A delicate blend of savory marinated veal and smoked eel sits in
the valley of a butter lettuce leaf and is topped with battered poached quail eggs.
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| Veal Eel Tartar |
Here is another exotic dish: Curried Frog Legs (28,000 LL)
hidden inside a seasoned tempura shell, drizzled with parsley pesto and
resting on a bed of sweet aioli. It could easily be Secteur’s signature entrée.
 |
| Curried Frog Legs |
The Fresh Salmon Tartar (30,000 LL) features finely minced
fresh salmon interspersed with puréed cauliflower and coriander pesto. You
probably want to horde the portion all to yourself—it is divine.
Ever seen tortellini in salad form? Secteur tosses its fresh
spinach-ricotta version (24,000 LL) in tomatoes, olives, eggplant, and mustard
sauce to render one delectable chilled dish.
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| Tortellini Salad |
The Marinated Chicken Wrap (28,000 LL) is a reinvented
fajita wrap with mild Indian spices and English Cheddar, no doubt Chef Dutton’s
influence. It is classic comfort food at its finest.
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| Marinated Chicken Wrap |
For those who crave simpler, unadorned fare, the Veal
Tenderloin (39,000 LL) is a perfect 150 grams of grilled beef, complemented by
mashed potato, steamed spinach and a red wine sauce.
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| The veal is so juicy and flavorful that the red wine sauce is an afterthought |
The three desserts on the menu (15,000 LL each) are equally
tremendous. The Bitter Chocolate Tart resembles a sundae strewn across a plate: crust-free, rich dark chocolate oozes silkily beneath a scoop of
Guinness beer and is decorated with crushed macadamia nuts.
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| Bitter Chocolate Tart |
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| Doughnuts |
The Apple Tatin stars a crunchy millefeuille base crowned with cinnamon-rubbed baked apples and a dollop of vanilla ice cream. It is supreme.
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| Apple Tatin |
What to wash it all down with? There are 20 inspiring
Signature Cocktails you could easily lose yourself in—and no wonder: they were invented
by the Purl London’s acclaimed 26-year-old mixologist Ross Nolan. I recommend
starting with the Aperol Shakerato (22,000 LL) muddling aperol, a splash of
Lanson champagne, and pink grapefruit juice. It is one deliriously sensational
cocktail.
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| Aperol Shakerato cocktail |
Prepare to be spoiled at Secteur. Everything about it, from
the food to the fixtures and the liquid potions, whispers mature and sophisticated, so
be sure you bring your A-game.
Mar Mikhael
Armenia Street
01-575 675, 70-422 444
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