Sapori e Vini: An Italian Trattoria Built to Last

I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again. Almost everything in Lebanon is transient. Whether it’s a hip new lounge, or a cozy little pizzeria; a widely successful international chain, or a ritzy eatery with outlets in a select few metropolises worldwide. There is no guarantee it will thrive and stay alive in Lebanon. Like the morphing façade of our own natural landscape, restaurants in this country are fleeting.

Few, though, somehow make it through, quietly chugging along and braving the ups and downs of the sinusoidal wave that is our state’s economy. And after over six years of rigorously studying the food and beverage scene in Beirut and beyond, I’ve found that several factors promote restaurant permanence: unwavering commitment to excellence and generosity; never, and I mean NEVER, skimping out on quality, freshness, and authenticity; easy parking; friendly service; an immaculate space and inviting atmosphere; and a damn good selection of dishes.

Sapori e Vini in Byblos is one such rarity. When I discovered it early last summer, months after its winter opening, I was windswept. A beautiful interior that evokes scenes of Italian city life; a Neapolitan wood-fired oven imported from the heartland; three unique dining spaces, straddling the indoors and outdoors, that house olive trees, a wine cellar, pizza bar, and bins of the day’s fresh produce; and wait staff who know exactly what they're doing. Byblos is blessed, I remember thinking. Beirut could learn from this kind of scrupulous genuineness.


Isn't that the picture of soothing calm!


Needless to say, the food matched the foregoing; it was, in a word, mind-blowing. Sure, I’d had decent trattoria cuisine in and around Beirut, but this was different. This conjured up tastes and flavors from our honeymoon in Italy like no Italian eatery in Lebanon had. With daily dishes reflecting the produce di giorno, house-baked grissini, a delectable melanzane alla parmigiana, and fresh sorbetti to purge the palate at the close of the meal, this place was destined to last.

And last it has.

We visited three weeks ago on an early Saturday evening. Greeted by familiar faces we’d met before - well-versed manager Serge and savvy waiter Rudy - including some new ones – lovely waitress Maria and executive chef Walter Benenati – we elected to sit in the indoor plaza beneath the olive tree. A basket of bread arrived, accompanied by homemade tapenade. Sparkling water revved up our appetites into full gear, as we proceeded to order our favorites plus some.

Fritto misto mare (15,000 LBP) translates to a bowl of fried calamari, shrimp and zucchini served with aioli paprika dip. You thought fries were irresistible? Engage a stopwatch from the second these land on the table to the second they’re wiped out: five minutes flat.


Fritto misto mare, or seafood fritters


After that indulgence, we reverted to the healthy: a bouquet of lettuce crowned with grilled calamari and avocado in lemon oil dressing (24,500 LBP). The colors present in this salad are so enticing, contrasted with a blue plate for a backdrop. You’d think it’s all about the edible, but presentation is everything. It helps unleash the appetite, and it’s probably best to unbuckle that belt anyway.


Calamari salad


My cherished melanzane arrived next, slightly less artful than last time (no fresh basil to garnish it), but unequivocally as tasty and tantalizing (21,000 LBP). Zesty tomato sauce, molten cheese that stretches for miles, and delicately baked eggplant.


Baked eggplant layered with mozzarella and Parmesan


You can’t not order pizza. If you visit Sapori and have only one thing, make sure it’s the pie, with its crispy cornicione caching a soft crumb. We opted for two separate toppings on one pizza: diavola, or artisanal spicy Italian sausage, alongside Bufala D.O.P, or buffalo’s milk mozzarella. That was the wisest decision we made, because while one ignites, the other snuffs out. The harmony is unmatched.


If you've got space for only one, split the toppings


Another thing you can’t leave without: dolci. The tiramisu is exactly what you’d yearn for in the coffee and cream dessert, a digestif of sorts that washes down as it inspires euphoria. But the caprese di cioccolato e mandorle con gelato vanilla is everything. Let’s unpack that phrase: flourless chocolate and almond cake baked fresh every morning in the wood-fired oven and flanked with a scoop of ice cream. It’s part chalky, part moist, and all parts exquisite.


Flourless chocolate-almond cake


There’s something about Sapori e Vini that reassures you it’s built to last. Maybe it’s the solid brick walls. Maybe it’s the mystique of being rooted in the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city. Or maybe it’s the faultless recreation of Italian cuisine consistent from visit to visit, even a full year apart.

May its sapori e vini -- flavors and wines -- continue to tease our taste buds indefinitely.


Sapori e Vini
Rue 47
Jbeil
09-737 437
81-734 333

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tantalizing Treats from the Coast to the Mountains

Image
For many of us, the undisputed beauty of Lebanon lies in the quality of food and drink available to denizens. If we Lebanese are blessed with one thing, it’s a highly discerning palate and a deep-seated appreciation for food, no matter the cuisine or category. Here are a few of my newfound favorites bejeweling the Lebanese frontier, from the coast to the mountains! Gilbert’s Burger Bites Having grown up in California, I know a good burger when I see (and sink my canines into) one. The Lebanese have always had a love affair with burgers, but if you grew up in the 90s, a burger around here ubiquitously meant a thin kafta-like patty smothered with coleslaw and fries, tucked inside a sesame seed bun large enough to bury a baseball. While nostalgia-inducing, that specimen belongs in our past. Since moving to Lebanon in 2011, I’ve enjoyed a number of decent burgers. But the crowning jewel is without doubt Gilbert’s Burger Bites. I’m not sure why it’s dubbed “Bites,” because their burgers are
Read more

What’s New In & Around Beirut

Image
In light of the multiple financial and economic crises that continue to grip Lebanon, it always fascinates me when I see new places crop up, or living spaces being treated to a facelift. Revival in Lebanon is at the core of our fabric. Our entrepreneurial culture perpetually outweighs the lesser than ideal circumstances that beleaguer us. All this to say, it’s a heartwarming feeling when you see others around you continue to invest and not relinquish hope in this country. Here’s the latest example of that! Xpark Perched on high in the hills of Mar Roukoz, not far from Waves waterpark, Xpark is Lebanon’s first indoor jump park spread across an impressive 3,300 square meters. Find different areas to suit every age and expert level: (1) X Mini for ages up to 6 to explore trampoline style jumping, (2) Freestyle, (3) Xpertramps for elevated performance enthusiasts, (4) XDunk for bouncing and shooting hoops, (5) soft-play for toddlers, (6) edutainment zone catering to ages 4-12, and more. Up
Read more

Lebanon's Retail Landscape In Need of Customer Service Overhaul

Image
Last weekend, I found myself visiting two different retailers with which I’d previously been unfamiliar. We received housewarming gifts that I wished to exchange for something of more utility, and after being repeatedly reassured that swapping would be effortless, I embarked on said mission. The first retailer has two branches: one in Jdeideh, north of Beirut, and another in Ballouneh, in the Ajaltoun district. The gift was purchased in Ballouneh, and I was going to attempt the exchange in Jdeideh, which is considerably closer to our home. I entered the shop and presented the item – a half dozen set of tumblers – to the two ladies seated behind the cashier desk. Almost instantly I was greeted with, “that’s an old item.” “Excuse me? This was purchased 24 hours ago from your other location,” I retorted. As though we were duking it out on a tennis court, the cashier swiftly shot back that she had to check whether they even carried this item in Jdeideh, because if they did not, she wou
Read more