Summer Sets In At Paper Moon Beirut


If there’s a season to cherish in Lebanon, it’s the season of the terrace. The season when it would be foolish, borderline criminal, to dine indoors. The season when fresh, crisp air lulls you to pitch a tent on a restaurant terrace and camp out for as long as the management doesn’t start throwing you scowls.

And Paper Moon Beirut’s embracing that season with Aperol Spritz, peach Bellinis, and over a dozen new summery menu items.

Nestled on a quiet Achrafieh street a stone’s throw from Hotel Albergo and Le Sushi Bar, the Milanese dining institution features an expansive terrace with comfortable seating, massive white parasols, and informed waiters who specialize in vigilance.

Last Saturday, we gathered with a group of like-minded gourmets over a selection of season-suitable specials, and rare was the comment that wasn’t in utter praise or fawning of Chef Elio’s flair.

An ethereal asparagus and cheese flan crowned with crispy onion chips and encircled with balsamic reduction was easily my favorite of the antipasti crowd (LBP 23,000). Lighter than a quiche and evocative of a muffin, this little bundle is the perfect palate pleaser to get your appetite in full gear.

Asparagus and cheese flan


For aperitivo, consider the assorted platter of charcuterie, cheese, and marinated veggies (LBP 57,000). Packing in bresaola, salami, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and artichoke hearts in olive oil, this plate pairs marvelously with a glass of chilled grape derivative.

Assorted antipasti

Consider complementing it with a simple pizza marinara, Italy’s ode to fresh ingredients and the united powers of tomato, garlic, olive oil and basil (LBP 18,000).

A slice of heaven -- aka pizza marinara


As though in reverence to Ramadan—at least in its crescent form, if not in its pork contents—a hinged calzone sandwich comes loaded with molten mozzarella, ham, lettuce and fresh tomato (LBP 23,000).

Calzone primavera


Primi piatti are perhaps the centerpiece of an Italian meal. Can you imagine a spread all’italiano without pasta or risotto? Heresy.

I’ve always had a weakness for those delicate pillows of potato known as gnocchi, and Paper Moon’s green variety swimming in gorgonzola cream sauce with caramelized walnuts is absolutely dreamy (LBP 21,000).

Gnocchi in gorgonzola


So, too, is the penne in a zesty tomato sauce with chunks of peeled eggplant and mozzarella di bufala garnished with basil (LBP 22,000). Another tribute to the “beauty in simplicity” philosophy Italians are all too well-versed in.

Penne al pomodoro, melanzane e mozzarella di bufala


How about an al dente risotto chock full of spring vegetables (LBP 30,000)? Here, again, asparagus plays a main role alongside zucchini and funghi.  

Risotto Primavera


If there’s still heart and longing for the savory, consider pounded chicken breast bathing in a fragrant lemon sauce animated with ginger and sage (LBP 26,000). The accompanying mashed potatoes make this dish a no-frills comfort food experience.

Pounded chicken breast in a lemon sauce with desiccated ginger and sage


For a departure from the traditional costoletta di vitello alla Milanese, Paper Moon offers you the option of the veal chop in all its grilled meaty character sided by cubes of roasted potato (LBP 57,000). Calling all carnivores – no delicate veggies here!

Veal cutlet with roasted potato cubes and rosemary


As far as I’m concerned, the duo desserts of summer are panna cotta with a jellified mango cap (LBP 16,000), and lemon pie with a scoop of chocolate ice cream (LBP 14,000). Both refresh, restore, and take the edge off any type of serious nonsense weighing you down.

Mango panna cotta with raspberry coulis

Lemon pie with chocolate ice cream


Because if they don’t, another hour or two on the terrace will do the trick. Hell, why not hang around until the (paper) moon comes out!


Ferneini St., Achrafieh
Open Mon-Sun: 12:30 - 3:30 PM, 7:30 - 11:30 PM
01-218401


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tantalizing Treats from the Coast to the Mountains

Image
For many of us, the undisputed beauty of Lebanon lies in the quality of food and drink available to denizens. If we Lebanese are blessed with one thing, it’s a highly discerning palate and a deep-seated appreciation for food, no matter the cuisine or category. Here are a few of my newfound favorites bejeweling the Lebanese frontier, from the coast to the mountains! Gilbert’s Burger Bites Having grown up in California, I know a good burger when I see (and sink my canines into) one. The Lebanese have always had a love affair with burgers, but if you grew up in the 90s, a burger around here ubiquitously meant a thin kafta-like patty smothered with coleslaw and fries, tucked inside a sesame seed bun large enough to bury a baseball. While nostalgia-inducing, that specimen belongs in our past. Since moving to Lebanon in 2011, I’ve enjoyed a number of decent burgers. But the crowning jewel is without doubt Gilbert’s Burger Bites. I’m not sure why it’s dubbed “Bites,” because their burgers are
Read more

What’s New In & Around Beirut

Image
In light of the multiple financial and economic crises that continue to grip Lebanon, it always fascinates me when I see new places crop up, or living spaces being treated to a facelift. Revival in Lebanon is at the core of our fabric. Our entrepreneurial culture perpetually outweighs the lesser than ideal circumstances that beleaguer us. All this to say, it’s a heartwarming feeling when you see others around you continue to invest and not relinquish hope in this country. Here’s the latest example of that! Xpark Perched on high in the hills of Mar Roukoz, not far from Waves waterpark, Xpark is Lebanon’s first indoor jump park spread across an impressive 3,300 square meters. Find different areas to suit every age and expert level: (1) X Mini for ages up to 6 to explore trampoline style jumping, (2) Freestyle, (3) Xpertramps for elevated performance enthusiasts, (4) XDunk for bouncing and shooting hoops, (5) soft-play for toddlers, (6) edutainment zone catering to ages 4-12, and more. Up
Read more

Lebanon's Retail Landscape In Need of Customer Service Overhaul

Image
Last weekend, I found myself visiting two different retailers with which I’d previously been unfamiliar. We received housewarming gifts that I wished to exchange for something of more utility, and after being repeatedly reassured that swapping would be effortless, I embarked on said mission. The first retailer has two branches: one in Jdeideh, north of Beirut, and another in Ballouneh, in the Ajaltoun district. The gift was purchased in Ballouneh, and I was going to attempt the exchange in Jdeideh, which is considerably closer to our home. I entered the shop and presented the item – a half dozen set of tumblers – to the two ladies seated behind the cashier desk. Almost instantly I was greeted with, “that’s an old item.” “Excuse me? This was purchased 24 hours ago from your other location,” I retorted. As though we were duking it out on a tennis court, the cashier swiftly shot back that she had to check whether they even carried this item in Jdeideh, because if they did not, she wou
Read more