Is it still considered bad luck if you're entering a church?

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Thanksgiving Reflections: What It’s Like Being an American Expat in Lebanon

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I moved to Lebanon in early 2011, which means I’ve lived in the Land of the Cedars for well over a decade now. Before settling here, I’d always wondered how I’d fit in with the broader Lebanese public in day-to-day activities. Sure, I’d spent countless summers in our second home, perched in the eastern suburbs just outside of Beirut. But everyone knows that vacationing as an expat is closely akin to being a tourist in the motherland. It’s hardly a taste of “real life.” So, what are the highlights of transitioning from diaspora to local? Can locals easily weed you out, even if you’re fluent in conversational Arabic? Is there any advantage to being an expat around these parts? Let’s tackle these questions together. Beirut Waterfront I grew up in southern California speaking the Lebanese dialect at home. My mother mandated it, much to our chagrin at the time. She even taught us to read and write modern standard Arabic, so you could categorize me to some extent as a native speaker. How...
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Celebrating Three Decades of Horeca

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Last week I attended a fabulous brunch at Le Gray’s Qasti restaurant to honor 30 years of Hospitality Services’ Horeca. If you’re any degree of foodie , the annual event to look forward to in Beirut is Horeca. Formed from the words Ho tels, Re staurants, and Ca fés, this exhibition is the largest in the Levant for the food service and hospitality industry, attracting hundreds of exhibitors, trade visitors, internationally renowned chefs and food experts. The sumptuous brunch at Le Gray was hosted by Joumana Dammous-Salamé, managing director of Hospitality Services , and her experienced team. A more convivial setting could not have been pinned down, and how fortuitous that winter took a one-day leave to afford us a beautiful, 25-degree day replete with sunshine. We sat outside on the terrace of Qasti, tucked away from the din of the busy street lining Martyr’s Square.  Le Gray Hotel takes its throne in the heart of the historic downtown district. After the August 4, 2020, Beirut ...
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Here We Go Again

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Exactly one week ago, memes started circulating throughout Lebanon as Iran and Israel went to war. The two nations were exchanging missiles, sending them sailing over Lebanese airspace, but folks in Lebanon were too busy on the snowy slopes of Faraya and Kfardebian to take notice or care. Oh, the sad irony, when less than 48 hours later, Lebanon became embroiled in the war, too. Skiers gliding down the slopes at the Mzaar-Kfardebian ski resort northeast of Beirut, Lebanon. Saturday, January 3, 2026. (Photo credit: AP Photo/Hassan Ammar) There is so much insight to unpack from that meme. First and foremost, Lebanese people are a recreation-loving, joie-de-vivre-seeking, jolly sort of folk. They truly just want to live and let live. I’ve never seen a populace enjoy life so fully, despite local and regional setbacks. Defiant persistence is etched in their DNA. They are doomed to suffer, even though they are not culpable.  I mean, seriously, how much more adversity need the Lebanese pe...
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